Sao Paulo I (dia um)

20 nov. 2009
Sampa here we come!
I have done sooo much last-minute research and preparations so that we can really take advantage of the 4 days we'll be in Sampa. This was my main reference I found this Blog about São Paulo especially helpful about restaurants and ways of getting around, from someone who lives there:
http://www.blogdesaopaulo.com/

I felt like I was already there just waiting in the airport because there were all these people dressed much differently than people in Salvador. In fancy suits, and eccentric designer clothes, some Japanese-looking people (! the first I had seen apart from my peers) and an older woman wearing these awesome metallic purple shoes! they looked great!

Anyway Lena and I weren't sure how to get around but the people at the airport said the cheapest way was to take this airport express bus (we were skeptical about this because we saw some other city buses, but we wouldn't know how to take them or what our stop was supposed to look like so, what are we gonna do?) Lena had all the information about how to find our hostel. We decided to stay at Pousada dos Franceses which was rather cheap compared to some other and seemed to get good reviews. (But totally a last-minute choice....for our last-minute trip). So I just sat back and trusted Lena. We were supposed to get off in front of some tall colorful building named Maksoud this place right here:
We got a little lost once we were dropped off but we finally found our cute little Pousada dos Franceses.




It was R$39 each person per day in a "collective room". It was an all-female 8 person room and Lena and I shared a bunk bed.



The banheiro for our room:
Yeah we were a little surprised to see the there were clear glass door in a bathroom for several people, Lena and I just put up a towel and it was all good though. 2 showers and 3 bathrooms for 8 girls. But there were some others downstairs for everyone.
We each got a locker with a lock and key too.
Then we put our stuff down and were off!
We were at first not really sure where to go or what but we got these maps from the hostel and figured out how to get to Avenida Paulista. Which you must visit, it's like the heart of São Paulo.
Since we were there, we decided to check out the MASP (Museu de Arte de São Paulo) .
It embodies the innovative architecture that has been a part of São Paulo's history. The museum is a huge block of cement suspended by bright red pillars and a glass elevator on the side. That goes up and above ground and down underground, there is nothing ground level!
They had an eclectic mix of exhibitions. From Rodin (a french sculpture of the late 1800s early 19oos) to local street artists. We almost didn't make it to the graffiti part which was really cool. I especially loved this kind of Japanese-inspired artwork that was up all over the wall, of a woman in a kimono getting into a Japanese bath tub but super colorful and swirly spilling all over the floor too.
But the we got out and it was pouring!!! We tried to wait it out but after 15/20 minutes we decided that it wasn't going to stop soon and so I bought this cheap poncho and a R$10 umbrella.


Then from there we walked to Rua Oscar Freire, one of the most luxurious streets in the world, and second in the Americas right after 5th Avenue in New York.
They have all these chic shops and high fashion designer places. Even for BABIES!
But this was all window-shopping necessarily by choice though: all the stores were closed by that time already.
But it was still fun to look into the stores and the streets were lined with Christmas decorations.
check this out they even have fish ponds under their displays.
The only place that was open and not even that noticeable was this "Mercado Chic" that was a collection of different little tents in an alley between stores (but a pretty wide alley nothing sketchy) and every little stand had things designed by the person selling them. There was a stand with all these really cool, original, kind of fancy dresses, this other place with a woman who made this cool headband with little tiny silk flowers in them that you could braid into your hair. And there was another with all these baby onesies with really colorful prints/patterns on them. They were soooo adorable. and some other really cool jewelry and headbands and I was debating whether I should buy one or not because they were kind of expensive like $15/20 dollars for a really cool headband (high quality it was no little cheap thing really) but I knew it was totally unnecessary. I wanted to support these women and people though, so it was hard. But in the end I didn't buy it.

Then we got hungry and Lena and I thankfully have compatible stomachs and palattes, and we both decided if we were going to spend money on something in São Paulo it would be the FOOD!
Sampa is known for the culinary experience that they offer, and honestly I'm sure that places like these back in California would be 4 times as expensive so we took advantage I guess.

I really wanted to go to this Mestiço (or Mestizo for you Spanish-speakers). It's supposed to be, as the title suggests, a fusion of cuisines from all over the world with Brazilian twist.

The menu :



Above the disposable (slash "keepable" souvenir) place-mat.
I ordered the Dehli, Indian-spiced grilled chicken rice and fried bananas.
Lena ordered some Thai curry plate.

They were both really delicious and worth it, it was may be like 20 dollars but I really think that the way the food looks does not do it justice. it was so delicious. And we also ordered freshly squeezed juice and the service was fantastic!



Then we walked back home. When I said we would be spending our money on food, it was intense. We didn't pay for bus or taxi or anything these were pretty long walks and even in the dark, but I noticed I didn't really feel unsafe at any point. It all seemed pretty safe, well-lit all the people we've met so far are really polite and helpful.
The accent they have here is very noticeable it's cool though it really makes the shift feel all the more dramatic.

At the hostel, everyone seems to be really nice I love Beto the guy who's at the front desk or rather supposed to be there, but he's really all over the place talking to everyone showing people around. He's this young cheerful guy with long hair brown hair, super accomodating and funny.
There is this other guy who started talking to me and Lena when we were in the living room planning/mapping out our next day and he is this like rocker guy with tattoos and a guitar, he really wanted to practice his English and I really wanted to practice my Portuguese so he spoke to me in English and I answered in Portuguese. So anyway he is from Sao Paulo, just visiting his friends that live at the hostel. He told us about his rock star dreams and how much he would like to get out of Sampa and go to California. He is a politician's son and he just doesn't like how the politics works there in the city. He told me he thinks everyone there is pretentious, materialistic, and snobby. So I don't know, may be he hung out with those kind of people, I don't think everyone I met today is like that although in a big city that's as wealthy (in some sectors) I guess that's always expected. But over all I have no complaints. Except my feet hurt! haha, but i think it was all worth it. Tomorrow is going to be another full day.

Quote: my friends

Me and my friends at a dinner party:

Lena: "I'm allergic to eggplants, shrimp, and honey"

Allegra: "All kinds of honey?"

Guillermo: "No, it's just the kind with the little bear, you know"

Esssay #3

17 Nov 2009

ESSAY #3

So it was great that we went to Cachoeira right before this essay is due, not.
But this part #3 is usually the most enjoyed by students because it is the one on popular culture and music and all that sort of stuff.
I wrote my essay on the implications of having Carmen Miranda be the international spokesperson of Brasil, but also for the Whole of south America--from a feminist perspective.
People love to bag on Carmen Miranda, but i decided that the issue is much more complicated.

I have to say I am really rather proud of this essay, the most I have been with my papers so far, and I think it's because I am the most passionate about this one.

How is studying and doing homework here?

Oh my gosh! it is really an effort. I'm not going to lie. Not only because there are far more distractions here than I'm used to because of course I want to go out and explore, but also I usually live with all other students and haven't studied around a family in a really long time. But I get my stuff done.
I am somewhat picky about study ambiance, and organization and usually everything has to be in a particular order. The desk cleared my laptop, an area where I can spread out all my sources, i have to feel comfortable, I need to have a glass of water, and really prefer when it is quiet.
Oh man and the process of writing a paper for me. First I have to transfer any relevant quotes into word, then categorize them into patterns for how my essay might flow, it's just super organized in detail and I honestly think it's just busy work procrastination. but again, that is my process and I manage.

However, the biggest struggle for writing papers here, for me, is the whole sleepy thing. I get sleepy and tired around 7PM and want to go to sleep. (still don't know if it's the weather, food, my imagination, all of those) That really only gives me like 3 hours a day of homework time when I account for classes, then eating times, and shower. And reading exacerbates this problem because it makes my eyes so hard to keep open even though the material is interesting.
(TIPS)
But I think that by now I have gotten better. I can stay up longer and I just close my door, put my headphones on and turn it up--to stay awake, it really helps. I also have to keep drinking water to keep having to go to the bathroom. Open the windows sometimes because it gets pretty windy and it flutters around all my papers and the blinds that keep falling out.
Anyway, I can control how much i let external distractions get to me, but not bodily functions and I want to sleeeeeeeeeeeeppp. Sleeping feels so good.
And I wake up early too because my room faces east and I get the bright morning sunshine through my window at 4 o'clock in the morning. I wake up at 6, the latest.

Thank you Gilman!

This entry is dedicated to the Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship program.

I wanted to say that I really am grateful that I was chosen as a recipient for the scholarship.
This help was really what made this trip possible because, as I've mentioned before, I come from a very underprivileged family. And this scholarship helped me pay for the program, and completely paid for the expensive (for my capabilities) airplane ticket round trip!

From my position you have no idea how much help this was! It took a lot of financial pressure off of me. It felt so much better not having to take out a loan for study abroad this way, I didn't incur more debt than I already do for regular school. The scholarship allowed me to feel like more is possible for me.

SEE this is how happy I am:

I really encourage everyone in need to apply for this scholarship, about 1 in 3 of the scholarship applicants get the scholarship! That's almost half!
I think any time working on a statement of purpose is definitely worth this life experience and what they ask in return is just a project that will allow you to share your experience with others and encourage them to study abroad and telling them they have resources like the Gilman Scholarship to help them out.

APPLY HERE:
http://www.iie.org/en/programs/Gilman-Scholarship-Program/Apply.aspx#faq3

Guess what my project is? This BLOG! And honestly I enjoyed this the whole time, to share my experience, but it has also added to my experience.
I made me more conscious of what was going on during this time abroad and I think it has made me more attentive as i have people to whom I can tell my little stories. Hopefully they have helped you or at least been enjoyable and allowed you to see what an experience abroad in Bahia, Brazil is like, through the window that is me.

Thanks for reading everyone!

Some more happy pictures:

I'm miss organic brown rice :(

16 Nov. 2010

I thought the homesickness week was over. I was told about the first 3 days and definitely after the first 3 weeks, it's all good, homesickness should be over, but I was NOT told about after 3 months I might want to go back home now.
I am actually kind of sensing among several of the EAP students that they are kind of ready to go back home. Missing their moms and dads, and friends and partners. But I'm feeling I miss the life style of back home and my family. Yes especially my mommi!

I miss organic vegetables and fruits at the farmer's market:

I miss my FARMER'S MARKET in general
oh the apricot jam!!

I miss the cage free eggs, meat from free-range animals, fresh and not salt cured. I miss my mama's beans, I miss home-made pastries from scratch that have some good whole grains in it.

[I made these buckwheat triple ginger cookies above from scratch--not to show off or anything ;), but they were delicious; they had fresh, powdered, and crystallized/candied ginger in them]

I miss cooking!
[enokitake mushrooms wrapped in bacon over broiled romaine hearts with some homemade blue cheese dressing--]

[here i'm making butter-by accident but...w/e it was pleasant surprise]

[some sweet potato fries with freshly grated parmesan--okay can you tell I'm a foodie by this point?]

And baking, I miss baking.[my attempt at a killer-cupcake-inspired cake, it was yummy]


Wow, I guess this is all turning into food. But of course i miss being able to walk around my campus or home town without caring if my cell phone is showing or I have some cash out, or that I look too much like.... a woman? And the fresh air that the ocean brings in.

I totally sound spoiled (and totally, possibly am) but, I think that there is a quite spread consensus that we are feeling ready to go back home. May be 3 months is our point because we're used to 3-month quarters? But at the same time of course I'm happy and grateful to be here,
I not for a second regret coming. And I'm not too worried because I really only have like 4 weeks, oh the clock is ticking I want to start doing my ...to-do stuff.

Tips: well, I think it helps to focus on all the great things, and realize all the things you can still do while here that you won't get to do back home. Try not to feel like the only thing that will make you feel better is leaving, because my friend is in that situation and I don't think that in that mindset you can really enjoy the time that you have left here.

the plans of a study abroad student

16 Nov. 2010

So over this weekend Fred gave us some sales, or promocoes in travel to Sao Paulo. He said there was a deal for 200 Reais ($100) round trip to Sao Paulo, and I really want to go so I'm thinking I might, but I have to make up my mind soon because I only have this weekend pretty much because then finals are coming up!

But this is so weird I've never made such a last-minute air travel deal, and I'm not sure but I'll check it out. Because I would like to see a different face of Brazil and I'm just thinking, i'm so close right now, if I ever want to come I'll have to pay way more than the US$100 or US$200, so I think. But...oh I don't know it depends on whether my other friend wants to go, I don't think I'm ready to go there all by myself with no ACBEU or program and...oh and then looking for a semi cheap place to stay--oh lots of things to think about, but I'm already getting excited without knowing whether i'll be super dissappointed if I don't get to go.

Cachoeira III:

15 Nov 2009

The next morning we woke up to this:

At 4 AM! The party began. There was a lot of cross-dressing, I suppose that's an easy costume. The thing is that this party, like Carnaval, is supposed to be toppsy-turvie: social order is turned upside down.

Another common one was dressing up like the stereotypical bahian Black doll. They are usually very black and have a colofrul dress of a particular fabric very bright and eye catching, and hair that is tied in bright orange or yellow scrunchies. The person on the left embodies the doll almost perfectly.
then these dudes with the big heads are supposed to be symbols of the Portuguese. Until then I had never heard of any stereotype of big-headed Portuguese.

Then I decided to take some more pictures of the ex-nun convent. It was a really peaceful place to be.

Then there was this tiny little tiny stairway that led up to the rooms. But I was so scared every time I went up them because it creaked and the steps were so short my whole foot couldn't even fit on them! So on one occasion I decided to prepare myself before going down them by firmly grabbing onto the rail, and all of a sudden the rail shook and I let out a tremendous scream like the whole world was falling apart, because that's how I felt. The one thing that I thought would be stable and it was wobbly and I thought the whole thing sould just break--but alas! it did not! and I'm still alive and well. Isn't that wonderful for us all?!


Down this hall, my friends and I recited some Afro-Brazilian dance steps we learned.
Then I took some time to walk around. Oh actually there was still dancing going on, and my friends and I started dancing at what seemed to be like a little lanchonete or restaurant but they made room for dancing.
And I had to go back to my favortie places like Pouso da Palavra literary cafe.

They had all sorts of stuff there: artisan work
vintage record players, records, cameras
"ancient" irons, oil lamps

Books!

Then we headed out to an historical Fazenda (farm) for lunch. But we had this interesting adventure on this bridge. It is historical in my memory because of our encounter with some people who wanted the big 99 Rainbow bus to back up so he could get through first. yeah, i won't go into the details but everyone got through it safely.
And we reached SANTA CRUZ! the farm. I'm guessing this was an ex-plantation, again that's one thing that I didn't like so much that we weren't given a historical background to many of the places we visited, just like look at this nice place and have a wonderful feast of a lunch, but I had no idea where we were.

WE were all really hungry especially after the bridge delay, and I was thirsty and her were these ladies at the entrance offering a beverage, and I take a little cup and gulp it down just to find that it is liquor and wow it burned. It was not what I was expecting and I should have asked but it was dericious none-the-less. It was really great. It was maracujá liquor for which this Fazenda is known.

Man, these plantation/slave owners had it good.
Great view and everything.
We got some appetizers, my poor friend Algebra. So she asked my friend Debbie to test these balls for any meat flavor and she's like "no these are just fried bread" and yes, it resulted that debbie is not very good at detecting meat. :(

I wish I had a video of the phenomenon that followed. Oh my gosh! or rather Meu Deus! And it was my fault. So, remember how I am always at the end of the food line on every buffet occasion and just get to have whatever was left over, usually no vegetables or meat, just the potato or rice sides, and by the time the cooks come out with some more fresh food, my inspiration has left because I have already started eating beans and i'm not approaching the main course in full gear anymore? This usually happens because I'm not the pushy type or because I'm a slow walker and get stuck at the end or both.
But this time, I noticed that the waiters were bringing out to the plates to the buffet table, and I told a few friends "dude, I'm gonna stand over by that window next to the table and pretend to take pictures, because I don't want to be last today"
So I get up and walk over to the window, and my friend Lana fallowed, then another person came up too, I hadn't realized that most of the 55 other people sat up and looked over at what was going on, and they just all start looking at eachother and getting ready to spring forward and suddenly 40 people got up and RUSHED over to the table, that had nothing but some plates on it.
It was ridiculous and to think that i caused this? So I just quickly made a step forward to make sure I was first in line. But it was really really ridiculous because we were just standing there for a good 5 minutes waiting for food, and it was really a Lord of the Flies, survivalist--almost cannibalist moment!
Even Fred got up to stand between us I could see he had a worried look on his face, ready to referree becaus seriously people were like, defending there place in the line and my friend and I said well we have to organize in a way so that there is only flow in one way on each side of the table otherwise we'll just crash but people on all sides wanted to go at the same time! And we're like wow we can't even compromise.
And comments to our couples who were trying to stand together in line and people were saying "hey, that girlfriend boyfriend thing doesn't count here" half jokingly but not really.
Oh the chaos I can cause. I was really not expecting people to actually do this.
But the food was totallyworth it! Look at this goregeous salad!
This was my final plate, yes finally i get the good stuff! mmmmm.... It was soo good, nice tender meat and fresh veggies and onions, and beans, and fried aimpim (manioc)!

This was a great trip. The fazenda was beautiful and I really liked hanging out with my peer friends like this. Just chilling talking eating. loving! It was a great day. Like the mexican saying goes "el que madruga Dios lo ayuda" God helps those who wake up early. haha, but yeah I always find the days that I wake up as early as 4Am turn out to be odd marvelous adventures.
Interview with Algebra:

It

I thought it was odd that a gas station was right in front of a church....odd is a pretty good word for most of this day. but in a pleasant way.

14 Nov 2009

Cigars in the making

14 nov 2009
different steps