Showing posts with label before you go. Show all posts
Showing posts with label before you go. Show all posts

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Sao Paulo IV (ultimo dia)

23 Nov 2009

LAST day

It's kinda sad that we're leaving and we still didn't get to do a lot of the things we wanted to do, but --just a reason to come back right?

Since it's our last day we just decided to go back to the places we really liked, like Liberdade again, and may be I was thinking we could go back and find that head band from the Mercado Chic, because I decided I really want it and I want to support that creative woman who made it. And I don't know what else, but we have to be back somewhat early because our flight leaves at 7 in the evening and we have to still figure out how we're getting to the airport and an hour early to check in our bags etc.

On our way back to Oscar Freire I remembered this place that caught my attention: it's called "The Best Chocolate Cake in the Whole World" and for some reason... we didn't go in, and now I really wonder why. Well another thing to go on my "future to do in Sampa"

But anyway I found no Mercado Chic, but we went by all these other super expensive shops that were closed last time and so we decided to go in, and yes I tried on stuff I liked.

I tried on a 2,000 DOLLAR dress!!!

Oh my gosh the dress was beautiful--we'd hope so, right. And it was a really fabric de calidade that doesn't wrinkle. I went to try it on and the dressing/fitting room, it was bigger than any room I’ve had, and had mirrors all around and a huge empty clothes rack on wheels (supposed to be for everything I want to try on I guess).

There was also a pot with beautiful plants and a couch. The dressing room was pretty much a master bedroom with exaggerated amounts of mirror. And then the guy came in (after I was done putting it on—but either way he didn’t seem to be very interested in people of my sex) and asked me how it was, blablabla and he helped me fix it up a little. He was totally obviously a Fashion-Nazi by the way he was dressed and his hair and yeah, he just generally had a great sense of style.

And I'd just like to comment on how this experience made me feel so weird. Because, first of all, I don’t usually go and try on expensive clothes or anything and then secondly because—yeah he was trying to sell me something—but I DO NOT get that treatment in expensive stores back in the states. A worker at a boutique in Paris actually once straight up told me that the clothes there was too expensive and that I should leave!!! Okay? And even in the states when I go to Nordstrom with my family (granted we’re usually just go in because we like to park in the structure next to it, but we browse etc. ) people just ignore us or give us looks that virtually say what the French lady said to me. And so many other situations, at other stores, restaurants, I have experienced a lot of racism and this is in California, which has had such diversity for a long time, but yeah diverse in the sense that we’re all there just geographically economically segregated. Oh man sometimes I just get really hopeless to think of how “backwards” things are.


Anyway so I was again reminded of those power relations I was talking about before. So all that discomfort in being in places like this and all the bad treatment I have received through racial profiling in the U.S. disappeared in one of the most expensive shopping places in the WORLD!!! Really, would I be treated the way I was in Oscar Freire in Fifth Avenue, New York? I really doubt it.


And again I have to ask why. As soon as I spoke without a Paulista accent the guy was like “oh where are you from?” and I said California. And I honestly feel like that came with the assumption that I have money to go out and buy 2,000 dollar dresses like that OR that I should be treated with more respect I don’t know. And is it because it’s the U.S. or is it because it’s California?


Would it have been different if I had said I was from Mexico? Hmm… But at the same time, again, only a few people from Mexico can do what I’m doing, so is it because I’m traveling? It is obviously a luxury, and a privileged experience in this society, and like I said before: it is not a random thing that it is I who am traveling somewhere instead of this clerk or my house keeper back in Bahia; she isn’t traveling to visit me in the U.S. How likely is it that it would be reversed, and the reasons too? If she went to the states she said it would be for working, meanwhile I’m…well…trying on expensive dresses and having fun, and studying. It definitely presupposes some power and privilege dynamics.


Anyway this is a instance of intersectionality because I’m sure all these factors interact. But these instances are the ones that really make me be more aware of what I’m doing and who/how I’m affecting, how I’m perpetuating the tourist dilemmas, and I really don’t want to take advantage of this position. I didn’t come here to be relatively superior since back in “my country” I’m constantly reminded “I’m inferior”.

Anyway…

Lena started feeling really sick and I kept looking through the stores because about one hundred years ago I was interested in fashion design and I still must say that Sao Paulo, as the fashion capital of the Americas, is very creative and I love their use of colors in fashion. So anyway Lena just kept getting worse so she decided to just sit at a park and then go to back to the hostel.


And I kept on going, I wanted to eat something at Liberdade, so I went. This time I looked around more slowly walked into Japanese bookstores and chilled in the main plaza:


and tried to find one of the restaurants that was on that other blog that I had looked up—but I didn’t find it. But it was okay because I ended up eating somewhere that was dericious and super well priced although it wasn’t fancy or anything, the food was authentic, good, and filling.


I had some raw salmon, tempura, tofu, miso soup, a bowl of rice, and pickled cucumber.

It was so good. And the place was lined with bookshelves stocked with manga! Oh if only I were interested. Jk. It’s okay. I liked Ranma 1/2 and that’s about it. Oh yeah and then before leaving Liberdade I got this:

a mix of snacks from Kanazawa.


I talked to a few of the people working there--mainly in Portuguese because I don’t speak Japanese, but one guy was a pretty fresh immigrant he was in Brazil for 3 years and he was speaking to me without much of an accent either (I mean compared to how I have trouble understanding some people from Japan who are new to English) so I guess it's Portuguese may be pretty easy for japanses people to pronounce, and that makes sense there are pretty much the same phonmese like the /zh/ and the nasal sounds, and /z/ etc. for any liguists who know what i'm talking about much better than I do.


it was really cool and I slipped in a few of the Japanese words that I knew while I was speaking. It was a really cool experience, but yeah then I ran back to the hostel. Since we had already checked out, Lena was just laying on a couch in the living room watching some movie and apparently she felt better now but still she had been feeling really sick.

She was thinking may be it was food poisoning or may be because she had been walking so much the day before, but I was glad she was feeling a little better.

Then quickly we found these 2 other guys who were also going to the airport and we split a cab! Yay!

And we rushed off..only to be slowed down by immobile traffic for a while, and we got to the airport like 15 minutes before our flight was supposed to leave, but we made it! And I was just sitting in the room eating my leftovers. I forgot a fork so I just used my hands after washing them well.


oh man this was quite a trip,

I'll see you later Sampa!

<3
Sonia

Monday, March 22, 2010

Being a Tourist Part VI: Resolutions

Now that I’ve said all these things that make me feel bad about being a tourist, I’ll say some positive things—because really it’s not all bad and it doesn’t mean that I don’t enjoy myself. So I’ll tell you a little big about how to deal with it seeing as I am traveling and I am a tourist and things are the way they are.
But I mean just look at me! I cannot lie and say that I’m not having a great time.

I do think it helps to be aware that by being a part of this study abroad program I am supporting most, if not all, of these problems above--at least indirectly. I think that being aware can affect the way that I behave, because I am not here to see beautiful people in bikinis and sungas (speedos), or to just party and drink água de côco on the beach.
What I want to do is communicate with people, to open my understanding of the world, to have culture shock (hopefully a shift in paradigm), to be more understanding, and see more alternatives to what I’ve learned by my experience prior to this. The way it has helped constructed my view of life. I want to learn different people’s ways of living to possibly incorporate the parts that I really like into the way that I live. I love to make Brazilian friends (and my EAP friends I’ve learned so much from them too) and listen to their perspectives. Also to learn about histories and other people’s struggles.
And I think that although that doesn’t mean that what I do isn’t problematic, I do think that a different attitude can help because it generally leads to different behavior.

But it’s also not like I will learn different things from these people because they are Brazilian, and they’re supposed to be different from people of the U.S. Sure there might be distinct cultural patterns but I think it offers different experiences communicating with different people as they are different people, not just because they are different ethnicities. So try as much as you can to not homogenize any group of people and expect that what information you gather on the culture and history etc., be true for every single person of that community. Expect variety.

I am also conscious of not being a patronizing, “generous American helping these poor people of the Third world”. I know lots of better off people of the “first worlds” dream of this, but this is also problematic and can, understandably, offend a lot of people. If what you would like to do is not just travel somewhere and take advantage of everything while not giving anything back to the community, then there’s nothing wrong with that in the sense that you are wanting to participate in something that is beneficial to the community. I would love to participate alongside community members with what I can, but like I’ve said before, you need to know the history, culture, and politics of the community and much more in order to best participate. And very importantly DO NOT assume that people can’t know what their problems are and they need someone to solve them for them. People know what their biggest issues or problems are if they have them, and possibly they just need to get more organized or have more opportunity for discussion with each other to experiment and decide how to take steps. Make sure that if you are involved in this kind of thing that you don’t see it as a charity—I don’t know if I can really go deep into that issue as it’s a different one, in this entry. I might be able to in another one but it’s complicated stuff as well and if you do think of it as charity it can take more than reading to be able to change that mindset, but the point is that it is patronizing. It’s still taking that power position and undermining the community members’ agency. That they have agency, the ability to act and see results in other words.

Anyway, how else do I deal with it? I’m not really sure. Thinking in this way makes it a little easier, kind of just hoping I’m not the worst tourist EVER. However, I’m not sure that this cognitive dissonance will go away any time soon. And by cognitive dissonance (out comes my psychology) I just mean like a contradiction between different thoughts or beliefs that you have or differences between what you think you should do and what you want to do/ what you actually do. At the same time that I feel bad about it, I’m obviously still here, I knew most of this before coming and still decided to do it, but at the same time I love being here in Bahia. Again look at my pictures—even the ones in which I think I look like such a big tourist, I can’t say I’m not happy.

I love having met all the people I have and learning about things and seeing the consequences of historical events in person. I liked seeing that Quilombo community and seeing the striking differences between the Portuguese and the ex-slave church. I like going to Capoeira class, I love the sound of the Berimbau, and all the heavenly food that I’m eating. I love the sun and I do like going to the beach. [And I do wonder whether that is so “touristy” to go the beach for fun when all the locals that I’ve asked “hey so what do you like to do on the weekends or on your free time here in Bahia?” and most people despite being from different backgrounds here in Bahia will be like “ir à praia e os barzinhos” = go to the beach and bars. Without even asking them though, this is quite evident when all the beaches super crowded—and with locals, evenings and especially weekends. And I keep hearing everyone saying how they can’t wait till the summer to be able to go out to the beach every day. Which just left thinking “ummm…it’s soo hot already, does it really get much hotter?”]

The point of all of this incoherent rambling is that I try to do what locals do and really I am trying to be flexible. I don’t expect being catered to all the time. I do not want a constantly air-conditioned, English-speaking, American-food-eating Brazilian experience. I think it’s great that I’m living with a Brazilian family instead of staying at a hotel. (Well I can’t really afford a hotel but I like hostels you get a good mix of people in them.) I don’t take tour buses outside of what this EAP program already has but prefer to just walk around and check things out. Not just the regular tourist sites.

Tips I would give are:

To just kind of NOT follow a map, or tour book; have days that aren’t so structured, and see what you find. Preferably don’t go alone if you go very far in case you get lost, but sometimes it’s cool to just go by yourself so you’re not carrying around an English-Speaking bubble that flat out points you out as a tourist and kidn of keeps other out.
And really try to go in as informed about the community as you can, but don’t think homogenous dichotomous thoughts or stereotype just from that knowledge. Try not to have a set idea of expectations of people or situations. Try to be flexible, act wisely, be respectful, try new things! And really try to enjoy your experience as much as possible BUT with consideration.

Being a Tourist Part V: Race, Class, and Power Issues

As I said in the beginning, tourism is embedded in power/race/class issues. Race because, class is very strongly tied with race to this day and that just has to be acknowledged. I think this clip art depicts this quite nicely with the Black person catering to the White Man. The White Man is typically the one in this direction of the power. And I know that I am an exception. My family and I are below the National Poverty Line, I am a woman, and I am of color, so I am not the regular candidate--but at the same time I cannot say that my poverty is the same as the favelados because obviously I am not starving and I am very very very thankful for that.

I am studying at an expensive University of California living in a town with a pretty high standard of living, I have the privilege(?) [I am still having an internal debate about what should be considered privilege and what should have been a guarantee in this context] of being able to eat organic food (I chose food over apparel, cars, and technology)—but the point is that I have all and more than my survival needs met--obviously if I have the luxury of traveling and studying abroad. But the point is that even though I am poor and a person of color, there still are different power dynamics between me and my host family, and my tour guides, and the people who “entertain” (Afro-Brazilian culture shows intended for tourists, capoeira shows) and work for me (our house cleaner, people making souvenirs) etc. And this can’t easily be reversed. Most of these people will not have the chance to come and visit me and take pictures of me while I entertain them.


Going off of the race thing, I do think that I feel a lot more comfortable not being White I feel like I might be less intimidating or foreign-seeming because I have a Latin American background too.
Short story time:
one time a few and my friends and I were talking on the street with this one guy who had a really cute baby and another really cute son who was around 4. We were just talking and playing when the 4-year-old mentioned to my friend “I like your color” and she’s like “oh you like the color of my shirt?” and the boy said “no” pointing to her arm “your skin color”. And she was pretty much left not sure as to how to respond. She just wasn’t expecting that, kind of in shock. Afterwards she regretted not saying something like “I like your color of skin too”. But really she was just shocked and had never had anyone say that to her before.


Michel Foucault is a good read on "Power"

And So-Min Cheong & Marc Miller, also wrote a good article titled
"Power and Tourism: a Foucauldian Observation" (1999)

Another article is found at:

www.pasosonline.org/Publicados/1103/PS020103.pdf

Being a Tourist Part IV: Problems with Mass tourism

There are just so many complications with tourism and being a tourist. There are problems with sexploitation, and eco-tourist exploitation. Mass tourism brings a lot of garbage, pollution, and depletes resources that may already be scarce for the local community. Usually companies come in and establish their tourist agencies and all these other things and what ends up happening is that these hot tourist spots become so dependent on that kind of business.

Some countries’ main revenue comes from the tourist industry but even then the people who are usually profiteering off of these revenues are the transnational companies from other more economically advantaged countries like the U.S.

There is a lot of cultural change that comes with companies taking over places because it makes it harder for the locals to keep practicing traditional ways with all these waves of foreigners and with being busy catering to them.

This can be seen quite clearly with the case of Morro de São Paulo. This island used to be a real place (as in, there were Bahian people living there) before all the international companies came in and it was converted into a beach resort. As I’ve mentioned in a previous blog, when I was in Morro de São Paulo, I was trying really hard to find people who actually lived there but, no, the majority of the people I saw and met and talked to were all either rich people from other parts of Brazil who were vacationing, or they were Europeans or from the U.S. The restaurants there are also mainly owned by Italians and Germans etc.
The whole thing was about business; they were all stores and most of them brands like Roxy, Volcom, O’neill, Vans-- I don’t even know those brand very well but the point is they’re U.S. and European brands. The rest of the establishments seemed to be tour agencies and souvenir shops. Of course the workers were Bahian although they didn’t own the shops usually. Almost all the people I asked from different places around the area said they commuted every day from other parts nearby. Only two people I met there were actually from the island! I am not sure how this got to be, but I’m sure that something similar to what happened in Pelourinho was the cause.
[This is what lines the alleys pictured above. I took it cause the doggie was so cute]
(Visa and Master Card are really everywhere, well...virtually )

Pelourinho is a major historical place, with colonial architecture, monuments and the famous churches (Nossa Senhora do Rosario dos Pretos and Sao Franciso church) and much has happened there including the beginning of much of the what represents Bahian music. Olodum was started there, for example, with Neginho do Samba who started the Samba-Reggae, which is a big musical movement recognized and loved internationally. What was so great about Olodum was that it was started by community members of Pelourinho who were mainly lower socio-economic status, and generally marginalized people of society. So there were many free lance artists, prostitutes, gays, lesbians, and transvestites. There was also where the first women’s percussion group was started Banda Dida. It was intended as a retention group or women’s empowerment; they were mainly girls from the area that were in it and for free! It was all really great, but then they were all kicked out because companies and local government decided to make Pelourinho a tourist site. So people were just kicked out and told that they could eventually come back or were going to be helped in finding a new place, but the truth is that they weren’t.

It was just made that way so that tourists could go there and shop and take pictures and have a good time. You can see in these picture how business oriented it is now, when it was once a residential area. This is where the Bahian culture is sold, with women dressed up in their ostentatious outfits in imitation of the Baianas for our view. So we can pay 1 real to take a picture with them. It’s just sad that they have to resort to selling their culture like that.
[This plaza is especially crawling with tourists; you can kind of see people trying to take pictures with the lady in the big pink skirt]

And this speaks to the power relations that foreigners/tourists are given priority. That is because the tourists’ side and transnational companies are the ones who have more of a say and control tourism and not the local communities.

This happens a lot that villages and people’s homes are ruined because companies want to set up their hotels or whatever in their place. And again now this brings a different rate of consumption of resources and lots of ecological and sustainability problems. Lots of natural beauty sites are harmed because of ecotourism too and imbalances in ecological communities are also a huge deal.

Then another issue is that tourism artificially raises the prices of products without having the local wages raised, so locals have a harder time affording things and in turn leads to higher rates of poverty.

So there are sooooo many problems with tourism. And I hope it’s not hard to understand why I feel guilty for it regardless of how this was all here before I came. I am supporting this and how much “easier” things are for me here makes me feel bad about this privilege as a foreigner.

Being a tourist Part III: Taking Pictures

Pictures are really complicated to me and I try to be aware of what they potentially mean.

Political and Philosophical Issues:

From my Indigenous struggles in the Americas class at the UC, our professor who specializes in ethnographies of indigenous peoples in South America told us that several indigenous communities really don’t want their pictures taken; it is seen as a form of violence.

Many people find it really hard to understand photography as violence, (even I’m not sure if I can fully understand that) but photography really is imbedded with philosophical and political issues that may not be very obvious.
It’s kind of how here in the states it is illegal for magazines and to show nudity (like nipples etc.) when it isn’t porn which can only be restricted to sales in adult stores and the like. However, there are exceptions: when the naked people aren’t White or from Euro-industrialized countries. It is fine when National Geographic shows naked African and South American people in their homes, but really it is an invasion of privacy.

They always justify it with “well it’s because this is their natural state where they live”--and that is the key! This is normal where they live but by taking their pictures and publishing them in millions of other communities where it isn’t, changes the meaning. And even if the photographers ask for their permission it isn’t likely that it is informed consent all the time since those people may not really know how widely the magazine is viewed. And even more they may not know how different the context is and how different the perspectives of these viewers who are allowed to enter their privacy. Do they know that many people looking at them sexualize their bodies, exoticize them or think they’re backwards and savages? Probably not, so I think that it is a form of violence to invade such privacy and create an image of something different than what it is.
These tactics have been used as tools in colonization before. To depict people as savages in need of civilization. Or Muslim women in the Middle East as oppressed because they may wear headscarves. “Liberation” of women has been the recent false justification for current occupation and exploitation of countries.


I personally am not planning on taking pictures of women in thong bikinis or starving babies. Even though I don’t think that I am exoticizing Brazil and Brazilians, doesn’t the whole taking pictures of fruits and people and forests and beaches that aren’t so common to me kind of imply that? I’m doing it because I think it’s interesting because it’s different, or beautiful, and isn’t that what exoticizing is?

And this inner conflict is intensified when I’m posting pictures on this blog because I am necessarily taking them out of their context. They don’t mean the same thing to you than they do to people who live here. But I do think hard and weigh the benefits and harms of every picture.
And I usually don’t post pictures of people without their permission but I didn’t get permission from every single person who is in the pictures I take. I usually do if they are the focus of the picture but sometimes there isn’t the opportunity to do so, and I always prefer candid shots. So many pictures of people, I don’t post and I try to cut out their faces or something because they have a right to privacy too, even if they’re performing for us. I mentioned in the Lençóis entry that I felt uncomfortable posting pictures of the capoeiristas. I can’t really explain it, and not everyone has to think this way, though. These are just my feelings and perspectives and well obviously I end up taking pictures and here is how I go about doing that:

When and Why I Take them:
In general when I decide to take certain pictures I mainly do it for the purpose of assisting my memory. I am a very visual person and pictures really help me. I also just think of it as with taking pictures with my family and it’s not because I feel more powerful than them or think they’re exotic. It’s because I really liked that moment and wanted to capture it in an image to remember it for longer. There is emotion attached to all of the pictures I take. So those are my personal rules for taking pictures: for the sake of memory; they’re primarily for me and I will only show those pictures to people that I trust if at all. Another rule is, not only get people’s permission, but ideally after we consider each other friends or at least had meaningful conversations so it’s more to remember the people I meet than to “take a picture” of someone doing something “different”.

Deciding which to Post:
The reason I post up pictures though—apart from breaking between lots of words that can become a little tedious and boring—is to open up my viewers’ world by sharing visuals of these places and in hopes that you will view them with respect and try to understand what’s going on I guess. I do it especially for people who don’t have the opportunity to really see things like this or know too many people who have studied abroad and I feel that pictures really help orient. I have been lucky to see this and want to share. I know that there are many places that I will never get to see personally and I would really appreciate pictures and stories so I can travel vicariously through others.
The pictures I post are those that I don’t think would invade people’s privacy too much and hopefully to take them in a way that I’m not exoticizing or scandalizing anything. These are people or places just like anywhere we’re from. From my perspective though, there are fewer differences than similarities and I see more familiarity in things than not. But, anyway if there is ever any picture that offends you that I post here, or possibly a different way that I should post it, or if you think I should give more descriptions, let me know. Whatever your comments I would really appreciate them. And also if you want to discuss these issues that I mention here, I would love to!

Being a Tourist Part II (visiting Candomble terreiros and Quilombola and more)

Sometimes, although I love to be able to see the many parts of Bahia, I do feel like I’m invading when I go to Candomble terreiros as a tourist, or the Rosario dos Pretos church and the Quilombo descendant communities and even doing capoeira.

I went to a candomble ceremony wondering if it would resonate with me. But of course curiosity and I did really feel bad because it was potentially treating such sacred grounds and space like a tour site. I did NOT take pictures at the ceremony obviously but still people there were members of the religion and I was not. I heard from our professor who is a Pai de Santo, that it was okay, they don’t care, and that’s the only reason I gave more consideration for going because may be they are just open to all potential followers but still. This I felt I was invading.

(My group visiting the Candomble Terreiro, kind of like a church)

Then going to other important historical places like the Rosario dos Pretos place and Pelourinho are just saturated with significance. Like the Rosario dos Pretos which was the Blacks’ and slaves’ church that took forever to be built because slaves didn’t have that much free time or resources or energy after having spent so much time building the White people’s churches and buildings and mansions. And then the Quilombo community… Quilombos were created as places of refuge for runaway slaves! These people were escaping from conditions that I will never understand no matter how much I read about them. It is such a personal issues to so many people still--descendents especially, and although I do take it seriously and find it really uncomfortable and frustrating when people make jokes about slavery (and many other issues including rape and mental “disorders”) it isn’t quite the same thing. And I did feel like dang all these EAP people having the privilege to see all of this; I feel so out of place sometimes. I am still not sure how to feel about this but I do kind of justify it I guess by knowing that at least I really appreciate it and take it as something important and try to be as informed and emotionally prepared as I can.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Being a tourist Part I: the rainbow bus and tourist groups

11 Oct 2009
How am I feeling as a tourist?


Although I am really glad that a lot of the time when I’m alone I just blend in because I can look Brazilian and understand and speak Portuguese (although I have a distinct accent), there are still many times that I feel uncomfortable being a tourist, for several reasons. I will explain a few of these issues that have to do with being in a large tourist group, with taking pictures, having our tourist sites be things that have such a significance that we couldn’t likely understand fully. Also about the complications that tourism brings to communities, and the inherent racial/class and power inequalities that tourism entails.


The Big 99 Rainbow Bus



Being on the big rainbow bus, separate from all the people outside, being high up above everyone and just looking from behind the window, I feel like it is symbolic of the barrier between us, the EAP people and the local Brazilians.

The bus is like our own little air-conditioned bubble and there is only so much that can be experienced from it.


There are times when I will also feel uncomfortable when for example my EAP peers and I will plan on doing something or going somewhere but when we’re there we tend to be an exclusive group sometimes just standing in a circle talking to only each other and in English. I always find that pretty hard, learning Portuguese but speaking English out on the street. The thing is that a lot of the people on this program didn’t take an courses in the language before since it’s not required for this program. So my other peers that can speak Portuguese would feel bad doing that while so many don’t understand so we just end up speaking our common language.

It kind of feels inevitable that when we travel we travel like this and it is very obvious were "Americanas". But what are we going to do? We are. It may be uncomfortable to me once in a while because of things that I've mentioned, but it doesn't keep me from enjoying myself obviously. We have a lot of good times and I am less self conscious most of the time. Especially since most places we go here in Bahia it is not uncommon to see tourists so people don't react especially in awe or anything like that--with the exception of Asian people I suppose.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Japão!

Being Asian in BAHIA, BRASIL







Here in Bahia there is a big “Black” population and the rest is mestiço (mixed “race”) or a brunette “White”. It is odd to see anything that strays from it, therefore any Asians are either Japanese or Chinese, and any blonde blue eyed people are assumed to be German many times.

Although I am not Asian, some of my closest friends were and I can’t go without mentioning their experience from what they said and I witnessed. And well if you’re Asian this is really important to you. However, I’m pretty sure that my friends experiences as Asian were also combined with gender effects because only Asian women were on this program so I wonder how the reactions to them would be different were they males.
Okay so.. it was something that my Asian friends noticed right away. Two were Chinese, Two Korean, One Cambodian, and another Japanese/Caucasian. And interestingly they all had different experiences, or (and?) interpreted them differently. I will describe more about 4 of them specifically and give a little of their background.

Jane*: One of my Korean friends, from L.A. and raised as a Korean. Physically she was really tan and died her hair super light, and she always got comments like “Japonesa! Japonesa!” Because the biggest Japanese population outside of Japan is in Brazil—BUT! But, in Sao Paulo which might as well be another country because it’s so far away and demographically/historically very different. Anyway so if you’re Asian in Brazil chances are people will assume you’re Japanese. Although one of my Chinese friends was called “Chinesa” a lot so…I don’t know. But this friend I guess stood out more because of her long thick light brown hair, tan skin-- apart from her race being extremely uncommon in Bahia; I think 0.26% of the Bahia population is Asian. People really find it different and a novelty so their reaction to her many times was asking if they could take a picture of her on their cell phones and what not. And I think she did let them at first but she’d never had someone ask her that before. However, she did feel very uncomfortable afterward and realized that it really made her feel a lot like an outsider and like she really could not blend in, she could not be accepted into the society because she was so different.

How she coped with it: well although she felt like an outsider and everything by the way she was treated and called names almost every single day in the street “Japão!”. One person did know she was Koreana, but one time apparently someone yelled out to her: “Mexicana!” and she’s like “woah, what?” But she tried to understand that she was out of the ordinary and people weren’t treating her as if she were less, just really different, some people would say stuff like “wow, how beautiful”. So I guess exoticizing--hardly better than xenophobia-- happens in every direction it seems, but again the power direction is different in lots of cases.

She could actually relate it to her experience in Mexico. She studied abroad there too, she’s super fluent in Spanish, but anyway so she said that a lot of people would refer to her as “La Chinita” and she found it really offensive at first and was like “I don’t like that” because 1.) she was not Chinese and 2.) because it was using the diminutive like “little Chinese girl” and she felt like she was being talked down to, but then she realized that that’s not the way they meant it. That they meant it more in the endearing diminutive sense, de carinho. So, she didn’t let that affect her experience and so many positive interactions; she made a lot of Brazilian friends who totally looked past her being Asian and she was just a person again.

Alex: She really, really was offended by a lot of what she experienced. She didn’t grow up with any strong Korean culture in New York where I think the Asian population is also pretty low, and in California, where she is studying, she is nothing really new for being Asian. But she would also get very different reactions, although she didn’t have dyed hair or anything and wasn’t as tan, so once people saw her face they’d notice. Many times she’d get the pointing and screaming out “Japonesa, Japonesa!” Especially by children who would follow it by stretching out their eyes. Or she’d just get “Japão!” not even 'Japanese 'but 'Japan'. Another time she was just walking down the street and an older lady suddenly grabs her hand and starts kissing it… in admiration? But she always had the luck of when she met people and they ask where we’re from and we respond California or the United States, then they’d be like “okay and where are YOU from because it looks like you’re from Asia”. Or they’d ask if she and another Asian friend who was there if they were sisters. One time there was this party and the housekeeper’s 13 year old daughter was hanging out with us, and she kept telling Alex “are you sure you’re from the U.S.? Because it looks like you’re from China” and she kept saying “no I’m Korean-America” or whatever, but she kept bringing up this talk of China and Alex was getting really frustrated. She later told me that she wanted to ask her back “ ‘Are you sure you’re from Brazil? Because it looks like you’re from Africa’ because it’s the same thing, I just don’t understand how people find it hard to believe there can be Asians outside of Asia.” So it was really super frustrating for her. It seemed like she got used to the street shout-outs but not when it came to her trying to have a conversation about something else and people keep asking about Asia. But apart from these frustrations she tried not to over-generalize because not everyone was like that, and she had a great time while in Bahia regardless.

Lena: she is from Oakland and goes to Berkeley. She grew up with a strong Chinese culture, she studied a year in China and speaks Mandarin and Cantonese fluently. She is fair skinned with long, straight, black hair. Anyway she also had a really hard time. So much that she just wanted to leave it all and got really homesick and really wanted to be around more Asians. She would get a lot of “Japonesa” too but “chinesa” as well and if not then a lot of stares--explicit stares. One time she was followed around for a while when she wanted to go home from ACBEU but she didn’t want to let this guy know where she lived so walked back around school and the Campo Grande Park until he stopped following her. She was really scared for her safety sometimes but really this treatment was depressing her a lot. She considered it really rude and racist and it really affected her experience in Brazil because she ended up hating Salvador and felt that the poverty and wealth gap were possibly affecting the way that people treated each other rudely. She said she didn’t really want to go back to Brazil unless it was to São Paulo where there is that Japanese bairro and most of the Asian population of the country..

This is what Lena says:
"People in the States in the liberal hotspots like the Bay Area try to be politically correct, sometimes to an extreme. And there are many places in USA that are not like that.
Speaking on being an Asian woman in Brazil has at least two aspects to explore, the race and the gender. You can attest the constant unwanted and rude attention women get from men. Also, there was no Asian man to testify how gender affects the situation.
I don’t mind the assumption that I may be Japanese but why should it be pointed out as I was walking down the street minding my business. I remember a time when Alex*, Ayako* and I were walking back from Porto da Barra and a middle-aged man walking with his wife coming from the opposite direction... said, “japonesa, japonesa, japonesa…” Why? I know Asians are not that prevalent in Bahia but there are pockets of them living there. Of course, there is also this song that gets played that keeps on repeating “japonesa” in the chorus or whatever and that shows how people don’t perceive it as anything rude. But at the moment he points us out, he is making a distinction that we are different from him; we are Asian-looking. (Perhaps a male wouldn’t get the same treatment, the vocal part of it.) Even walking to ACBEU and passing the high school students, some of the boys would try to say nonsensical things in an attempt to make fun of Asiatic languages.
It also bothers me that some people don’t know that Japan is its own country and there are different countries within continental Asian that speak different languages and have different cultures. So, I had to explain that like in Europe that has different peoples and cultures; Asia also has different peoples. And there were quite a few people who can tell that I am Chinese. So there are people who know are more aware of geography and the different peoples that inhabit the earth, but there are people who are not as aware.

As you know, I’m currently in a relationship with a baiano. And he has many stereotypes of Asian people being reclusive, having strict parents, and others that I am not so clear about. It is unfortunate that I am kind of on the quiet side and that he assumes is a racial/cultural type instead of a personality type. He also talks about comparative penis sizes… Suffice it to say, we had many discussions about race. In Brazil there isn’t racial tension but there is inequality, so I think people don’t know the role that misconceptions and stereotypes play in keeping socio-economic inequalities.

Anyhow, like many other Brazilians, he isn’t racist, but really insensitive. Nowadays, he pays attention to a lot more remarks made about Asian people and notices them more and he reports back to me about them, I find it really cute. haha. Another comment he made was that if he were Asian in the USA, he probably wouldn’t feel American. He hasn’t been to the States and he has only watched movies and got other information from the media, but I guess he may be making the association with the Asian population gathering together in Liberdade, Sao Paulo and not fully integrating the Brazilian society…? At least that is the feeling I get from that statement, but I told him that I do feel American, in regards to my views and experiences…what other cultural identity can I claim, clearly I have many Chinese influences but the Chinese within China are very diverse and the Chinese communities in the USA are just as diverse. And the truth is that many generations of immigrants from different regions of the world have been trying to make a place for themselves within USA and that’s what we have to do, make a place for ourselves. Part of the process of making a place for our communities to setting up support systems such as Liberdade or Chinatowns, etc. I find it interesting that it sets people apart, but also, a necessary place to make people visible.

Also, another snippet on race, he told me that his momma didn’t want him to be partners with a darker skinned woman because their children may have a more difficult time in society. It isn’t a problem that I am Asian, apparently. His momma is really fair-skinned, which he considers white, and his father is black. His mom’s siblings are a range of colors. So, on some level, people know of the racial inequality, but maybe like in the States, it is perceived as a black and white dichotomy.
The black and white dichotomy brings another point, where in lecture Fernando and Willys said that the statistics of Asian people are so low, it doesn’t matter in the whole racial dynamics of Brazil. I think there is a similar phenomenon in the USA where people think that Asian people are doing well and are not a part of the racial discussion, but of course this isn’t a correct assumption. I was reading blogs online and there was a comment from an Asian guy associating his insecurities in dating with how he has no confidence because he was Asian. There isn’t a masculine role model for Asian guys and I’m not one for gender roles but I know that such things affect people.

I am very sensitive to these social issues even though there is no hard feelings from the people who say rude things, but a combination of ignorance to the point where it borders disrespect really got to me. Other than that, Brazil was a wonderful experience and people are very nice."

[Thanks Lena!]


Ayako: Because she was Japanese-Caucasian and really tall, had natural light brown hair, a lot of people, on the street and people she met, just treated her like other “American girls” but once in a while she’d get people who said “arigatou” to her and she’d get really excited and ask them in Japanese if they spoke Nihonn-go (Japanese) but sometimes they would just say it teasingly. But she usually didn’t get the “Japonesa!” out in the street.
However, sometimes when she’d meet people even mães from the program! When she’d for one reason or another bring up “oh I’m half Japanese, twice she got in response “oh I can see it now because your eyes go like this [stretching them a little]” and she just was really shocked because from everything that we’re used to in California, that is considered really rude, but this was coming from really extremely sweet mothers and they weren’t doing it to be offensive. I guess people don’t really consider that rude here.




Other experiences with Brazilians:
Even Allegria’s mom, and I see her often, she is just sooo sweet and I love her, she is MARRIED to a Japanese guy but even she treats being Asian as something special I guess… when she was explaining to Allegria: “my husband is Japanese” she’d stretch out her eyes as if to make sure she understood. And when I mentioned one day “oh my partner is also Japanese”, afterward every once in a while she’d make comments like “oh your Japanese namorado is going to love to see you all tan; they go crazy for that” And I didn’t find it particularly rude and it didn’t make me think less of her, but I found it interesting that well even being married to a Japanese man she makes these kind of generalizations but.. yeah race relations are different here.
The histories are very different, Chinese immigrants didn’t play the same role here as in the States and their connotation was never the whole “china man, china man sittin’ on a fence, tryin’ to make a dollar out of 15 cents”. And there was never the whole Pearl Harbor deal, Japanese internment camps, or the “Japs”. So, it may not be as sensitive an issue as in the States.
Just be aware and know that it’s not necessarily meaning to insult you.
Even I get the whole double questioning once in a while, about “oh you’re from California too?” but it’s a lot different because a lot of the time people will just assume I’m Brazilian or I’ll be like “I’m from California” “oh I though you were Brazilian” but it’s because of similar indigenous populations within Brazil that it’s not all that uncommon. But I did kind of feel strange when one time I went to visit my Tia and I was meeting someone and my mom is like,
"you’ve already met her before”
“não, não a conheci, você só falou de uma menina nova, Americana que parece Índia”
[=no, I haven’t met her, you just told me about the new girl, the American girl that looks like an Indian]

So being the American that looks like an “Indian” [native- not from India] makes me feel a little like an outsider yeah. But, like even Fernanda told me one of the first times we met that she was surprised that I’m so morena, and she asked me why I’m so dark/tan. And I saw it as a good opportunity to talk about the diversity in the States and also about some of our race relations and why it is that as a Mexican, Indigenous descendant I ended up in California and also why the “Americans” they usually see are white. I got to describe some of the racial-class issues of the States. And honestly I’m proud of my indigenous background and proud that people can see it, but I guess I am a little sensitive about the incorrect “Indian” terminology.
I don’t mind it when people think I’m from India or anything but it’s the whole like continuation of lack of importance given to Natives that just call them whatever they were first called ignorantly by Colombus, and oh it just makes me remember the whole Cowboy-Indian and “red-skins” deal in the States and the genocide which I still am not over. But I don’t see it as though they are trying to insult me or they realized how charged their words can be to me (and I'm sure lots of other people). But not just because I look this way are they treating me like I’m subordinate so, as long as they still treat me with respect I’m okay and I do understand that it’s not their fault that they say "Indian" and not "Indigenous Peoples" or "Native Americans".

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Oi Linda!: Gender Relations Part II (nas ruas)


"Oi Linda!" "Linda, Viu?"
These are comments that my girl friends noticed from the night we stepped foot out of the orienation hotel and into the streets.
Our first experience:
So we were 3 women looking for a place to have dinner and we were walking by a near-by park and there were lots of people out chilling, selling street food like popcorn etc. And when we passed by guys almost all of them would make some sort of comment and my friend Allegria said “well, then I’m glad that at least I don’t understand what they’re saying” and right after she said that a guy we passed goes: “beeeautiful”. It was just amazingly good timing. So anyway this was fairly representative of our experience on the streets of Salvador as women from that day forward. It happens every day especially if you’re alone; it happens far less if you’re with a guy and especially if they think the guy is Brazilian.

But yeah it is very uncomfortable, to quote one of my friends who is constantly hit on almost everywhere, that she “feels like a deer in the woods ready to be hunted" or with comments like “gostosa” [delicious] "literally like a slab of meat at a delicatessen." Although I/we don’t condone this, my friends and I agreed that at least they’re just comments like “Beautiful” and not more vulgar commens about our bodies or anything like that, which we have experienced before in the States. Allegria, from San Francisco said one time when she was walking to a job interview and felt she looked really cute, a guy passing her says “nice tits” and that is… yeah so we’re thankful that usually it’s something less vulgar.

But of course this kind of thing does seem to be limited to experiences with strangers and usually on the street [some have experienced a lot of machismo in their capoeira classroom but it’s a different sort of thing]. Because I am not treated like this by all guys/men on the street. Especially if they’re working. I’ve noticed that wearing the uniform really means something; sometimes the minute some guys are off work--like our tour guide at Morro-- it’s a totally different story. But yeah I am not harassed by my sisters’ friends or other friends we make here at some concerts etc. Of course even less by the males in our host families. I also think that anonymity and social class have something to do with it usually.

  • How do I cope with it?
I guess I had had some experience with that before, in the U.S. in Mexico, but I don’t feel comfortable, and I don't condone it as a patriarchal behavior so men feel dominant over women reminding us that our place is nothing more than as sex machine as we were created for men’s pleasure and passing on of genes. But anyway, I guess you just kind of learn to ignore the common "oi linda" "oi amor!" "linda, viu?" to the point that in some situations I just find it somewhat amusing even. Like one time I was walking by some gated building and there was a guard behind the gate who saw me between a crack for like one second and he goes “wiew”, like he was on a rollercoaseter or something.

My friends and I satirize it all the time. “oooh, do my half-shaven, pasty, mosquito-bitten legs turn you on?” Because it really doesn’t matter as my housekeeper, Fernanda has said, whether you’re all dressed up/ showing cleavage and in a mini skirt or “toda desarrumada ” and all covered up and sloppy.

But this one time that it got to be more than just “oi linda”. I was at a bustop with 4 other friends and this man who was homeless, came up to us and started talking to us, asking where we were going and such, and my friend responded “praia do flamengo” and he was okay at first but then he started saying stuff like “oh I bet you’d look good on the beach with those long legs” and from there we demonstrated disapproval and tried to ignored him. Then he went away and came back "where are you from?" And I answered “Sou Brasileira” thinking he might leave us alone now if he’s only doing this because he thinks we’re all tourists who don’t know how to deal with this stuff, but nope that didn’t help--and I guess we didn't really know how to deal with this stuff. Cause he grabs my arm and kisses it ..out of patriotism? I don’t know but that’s when we moved away because touching or any physical contact is waaaay beyond crossing the boundaries. So we moved away and then it seemed like he was gone so we came back, (the bus still hadn’t come) and we sat down on the benches and then in like 3 minutes he comes over and sits next to me and wants to keep talking and I’m like “I have to go”. But he gets up and follows me and he’s like “no wait let me give you another kiss” me: “nao!”

So I recommend that if something is going beyond (because you can spend your whole day just saying something back to every person that sexually harasses you and it seems like a waste of energy because it'll happen the next day again and again and again) and is persistent that you just leave the area, or it will escalate. You can also say “me deixa em paz” = “leave me alone” and then go. Sometimes, like in this case it doesn't seem like reason will really help because this guy seemed to have a mild mental disorder and I don't know I just know that being homeless his behavior is reflecting his life experience and what he’s probably been seeing on the streets all the time. And I was thinking also that since I don't experience this sexual harassment with my family or my sister's friends well they are all from a middle-upper middle class so may be that's a factor. However it's not so say that it doesn't exist in that social class because....

This other time, God, also at a bus stop --by myself this time, I was waiting for the Praca da Se bus and it was taking for EVER! I had already waited like 30/40 minutes and in the last 10 minutes there was a guy who was in a suit, suitcase, tie, and reading the newspaper apparently just got off work or something, and I noticed he kept staring at me and smiling creepily just watching me. And I moved a little and he followed, I moved back and so did he. It was getting weird so I just decided to get on the next bus even though it was the executivo (executive), more expensive one because I wanted to go already. And he gets on the bus with me! But I kind of made the seat next to me unavailable so he sat more towards the front
And I wasn’t sure where to get off because this bus might have different points than the other normal bus. So I asked this other guy who was farther in the back with me. He was super nice he was explaining everything to me, very respectful and he told me he’d let me know when to get off. So then he says “it’s coming up” so I go back up to the front and the bus driver told me oh wait it’s a couple more blocks, but to my bad luck there was terrible traffic and I was standing almost right in front of the suitcase guy and I start hearing some noises. I thought it was my imagination at first, and then I told myself may be he’s just smacking his lips at what’s in the newspaper, but afterward "no it can’t be that repetitive". But I felt disgusting because I had my backside to him and now I realize he’s making kissing noises at me trying to do it only loud enough for ME to hear and oh man those minutes were eternal to me and I guess he did want some kind of reaction because he was getting louder and louder to make sure I heard, so I decided not to look because obviously that’s what he wanted if my reaction at the time--of not doing anything-- was not what he wanted. But I just got filled with such raiva that I just wanted to turn around and smack his dirty lips I just wanted to slap him. Like what the hell are you doing?! And then finally it was my stop, and he gets off too. I was determined to lose him in the crowd luckily avenida sete is always crowded. But I was still feeling really frustrated. And it was worse to me than when the homeless guy kissed my arm because it is definitely a different power dynamic. This guy had not only had the education to know that he is doing something wrong but I almost feel like he was doing it for that purpose. Because he “knows” he is in the position of power and probably wanted to intimidate me or something, and obviously it’s very unequal because I can’t do that back to him and make him feel the same way, he can’t feel sexually harassed by me and if I did what he did to be back, he’d probably like it.
Oh disgusting though. I
t was the WAY he was looking at me. a super sexual way of looking at me and it really did make me feel like being violent towards him. I don’t know if I dealt with that well, I still feel like I should have told him something in front of those people on the bus like “velho perverso, você não tem vergoinha de ser tão maleducado!” But again I’m not sure if he probably even would have wanted that, or any reaction. I think, well I wish I didn’t react the way I did internally because that only hurts me. I wish it hadn’t bothered me to that point, but it did all the more because he was a “White” man.

So, like I said it usually had to do with class but not always, and it was very interesting how different my reactions were to this. But after I told my friends they were totally more disgusted regardless of all the kisses blown at them before, but it did make a difference that it was a White man from an higher class. It just is a different power dynamic in this instance and it changes the way we perceive it.

[the picture is from: ]